Zaijian Beijing!

So long and thanks for all the fish.

Bags are packed.  Tomorrow, Andy and I head home to Seattle, finishing our five-month stay in Beijing.  Anxious to get back to Seattle’s mild temperatures and fresh air and to our friends, family and coworkers; we’ve spent our last few weeks in Beijing visiting some lesser known sights around town and saying our goodbyes. 

We’ve been asked several times what we’ll miss most about Beijing.  And although I have a rough sense of it now, I imagine we won’t fully understand our time here until we’re gone. 

But, the short list so far:

I’ll miss my fruit stand girl.  Every Thursday when I leave school, she sees me coming with my ten kuai bill in hand, and starts selecting the best pineapple on her cart.

The Wednesday hiking group provided the most spectacular of scenery and the most valuable of friendships.       

The little haizis, students, at the International School.  I’m in awe of their creativity and understanding of the world.

Expat friendships.  For a city of 19 million, Beijing can actually feel quite small and connected.  I am incredibly grateful for the friendships made with fellow expats.  I hope that our paths will cross again, be it in New Zealand, Australia, Switzerland, Paris, New York, Denver, or Berkeley, California.  My days were all the richer because of you. 

Time with Andy.  With the exception of two Microsoft dinners, Andy and I spent every evening and every weekend together.  My best friend and greatest companion, I am beyond thankful that we had this time together and so proud of what we’ve accomplished.  Our sense of the world has certainly grown during our time here. 

So on this eve of our departure, I say good bye Beijing.  So long and thanks for all the fish.  As I vividly recall the restaurant in Harbin, when much to my surprise; we were served an entire fish (head, tail, fins, and skin).  A bit apprehensive as to how to eat such a meal with chopsticks, like so many situations in China, one quickly adapts.  By the time we reached Yangshuo, we were experts in devouring an entire beer-steamed fish, peeling and picking off the most tasty of white meats.    

Thank you all for letting me share this adventure with you.  Zaijian!  

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Happy Birthday Laoshi

Where ever the road may take you.

My Chinese teacher, Xin, and I celebrated her 24th birthday a few weeks ago.   A consistent thread throughout my time in China, our weekly lessons have provided me with a gained understanding of not only Mandarin, but of Chinese culture and traditions, and occasionally Xin would bring me up to speed on the finer points of American culture- a.k.a an education in the performer Lady Gaga.   

Having formed quite a friendship, it was bittersweet to finish our last lesson.  I hope that we will keep in touch as the years come.  Standing from my balcony in Beijing’s northeast district of Chaoyang, as far as the eye can see (which isn’t that far on this particular hazy day), all of the buildings and roads have been torn down and rebuilt in her lifetime. 

I will be fascinated to know where the road takes her and how life in this ever changing city will evolve.  Xin, I wish you many happy days ahead and may all your birthday wishes come true.  Thank you.  I have so enjoyed our time together.

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Village Life

There's no place like home.

One of my last hikes in the hills west of Beijing, we stumbled upon an abandoned village nestled amongst fruit tree orchards.  Despite the villagers being forced to move to the larger town closer to the highway, some of the elderly residents return to their family homes every summer to grow their vegetables and breathe the fresh air.  I don’t blame them; the sunny skies and terraced valley were simply breathtaking.

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Shanghai

Something old, something new.

We spent our final day in Shanghai exploring the sights around this major port city.  Home to 20 million people, Shanghai’s architecture is unlike any we’ve seen in China.  Often referred to as the “Paris of the East,” the city flourished through the 1930’s as the central trading channel between the east and west.  British and French merchants built custom houses, banks, and hotels along the Puxi (west bank of the Huangpu River) modeling them after their Victoria era counterparts in London and Paris.

After World War II, Shanghai was largely abandoned by foreign investment and the newly formed communist government.   Thus, the city escaped the utilitarian architecture so prevalent in Beijing’s government buildings, concrete blocks built during the 1960’s and 1970’s.  Economic reforms introduced in the 1990’s reopened trade with the west, and Shanghai quickly rose to become the world’s largest cargo port. 

With the surge in financial investment and capital, Pudong (east bank of the Huangpu River) was development into an ultra modern district of skyscrapers and space age looking tv towers.  A stark contrast from the Victorian era custom houses along west bank, where we spent some time walking along this section of the river called the “Bund”. 

Amongst the crowds, I caught a glimpse of an empty container ship making its way back home.  A fitting symbol of this region’s financial power.    

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Expo 2010

Around the world in 48 hours. 

Much to our relief there was a tour bus waiting at the Park Hotel when we arrived early Thursday morning to take us to the 2010 Shanghai Expo.  Judging by the number of buses in the parking lot, we would not be alone.  Expo organizers had provisioned the massive theme park like complex to accommodate 400,000 people on peak days.

With the theme, Better City- Better Life, the Expo featured the latest technologies in renewal energy and urban design from countries across the globe.  With lines estimated at over two hours to enter the most popular pavilions of China, USA, UK, Japan, Germany, France, and Saudi Arabia, Andy and I opted to spend our time exploring less crowded pavilions. 

Starting with the north, as in North Korea, we collected stamps in our souvenir passbook from Mongolia, before making our way to stans- Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan, where we came across delightful models or hydroelectric plants and yurt designed homes.   

Peru, Costa Rica, Philippines, and The Maldives, chose to showcase their eco-tourism advancements.  While Italy showcased the first ever hybrid Ferrari, painted neon green.  Andy ventured on a virtual bike ride through wind turbine fields of Canada and we saw our first 720 degree movie at the China State Grid Building- a journey through space. 

Ten times the size of the Seattle Center (home of the 1962 World’s Fair), the architecture at the Shanghai Expo was beyond impressive.  Spain’s outer siding was constructed of woven basket panels, allowing for ventilation and natural light, India constructed the largest bamboo dome and green roof, the UK’s gray “Hedgehog” building was constructed from sixty thousand 8 meter long fiber optic rods with plant seeds enclosed at the tip. 

A project to promote a joint venture between China’s Kunming Institute of Botany and UK’s Kew Royal Botanic Garden to stockpile 25 percent of the world’s plant species by 2020.  The building will be deconstructed at the end of Expo this fall and the rods distributed to classrooms across China and the UK.      

The Netherland’s Happy Street was a mock city built on stilts featuring new innovations in water filtration, solar power, and agriculture (ceramic sheep were placed on the Astroturf below to emphasize new models of land management).  The ceramic sheep also provided some convenient resting stoops for the weary traveler. 

Not to completely avoid the crowds, Andy and I stood in our fair share of lines.  Although not always pleasant (too much line cutting and pushing for my liking), we survived and enjoyed delicious burritos (with real guacamole!) in Mexico to celebrate. 

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Shanghaied

It would be so easy if it wasn't so complicated. 

The 2010 World Expo opened May 1st in Shanghai, China.  Having thought that World Fairs had ended sometime after Seattle’s 1962 Space Needle and Montreal’s 1967 Expo and subsequent naming of their Major League baseball team, I was delighted to plan a trip to China’s cosmopolitan southern city of Shanghai.  One final hoorah before heading home across the Pacific. 

Feeling fairly confident that I could arrange all the details of this trip myself, sans travel agent, I booked our hotel and air travel using expedia.com.  The Expo website provided several options for purchasing tickets.  In person at any China Post, Bank of Communications, China Mobile, or China Telecom location, on the phone (English and Chinese) and via the web (Chinese only).  So many choices, this would be easy.    

Arriving at the Sanyuanli China Post, I approached the counter, and in my very best Chinglish, a mixture of Chinese and English that relies heavily on hand gestures, I said, 

“Nǐ hǎo.  Wǒ yāo mǎi Expo piào.” Hello, I want to buy Expo ticket. 

A confused look from the young postal employee. 

“Er líng yī ling Shanghai?” 2010 Shanghai?   

Still no luck.  Finally getting the message that they did not have Expo tickets, I headed across the street to the Bank of Communications.  Relieved to find a six-foot tall poster advertising the Expo, I pointed to the sign,

“Wǒ mǎi,” I buy. 

More confusion and a discussion with the manager of the branch, my helpful teller came back saying something that sounded like “cheez-a”.  Hmm.  Did he say qiézi as in eggplant or qī sì as in seven-four?  Neither of which seemed to be a plausible explanation.  On to Plan B. 

I often find telephone trees difficult to navigate, easily getting distracted before I’ve listened to all the options.  Pressing two for English landed me in a Chinese-only loop, and pressing 0, as done in the States, does not universally reach the operator.  Eventually pressing enough keys to reach the translation department, I was informed that this service merely provides the addresses for China Telecom locations, not the actually ability to purchase tickets.  Unable to dictate (or understand) Beijing addresses, it was on to Plan C.

Going through the Beijinger.com directory of travel agents, I was politely informed that Expo tickets were only sold as part of all inclusive trips (hotel + air).  Panic starting to creep in and wishing for a Craigslist solution, an agent returned my call later that afternoon.  She could get us tickets.  Whew. 

Purchasing the tickets, plus service charge and shipping fee, the agent let me know they would be delivered the next day.  As instructed, I went to the office to pick them up.  Only they aren’t actual Expo tickets, but rather bus tickets for a local tour company that will supposedly get us inside the Expo on a group pass.  With the travel agent’s assistance, she selected the exact location and time we would be meeting the shuttle, quickly keying in our information online as we watched the seats fill up. 

A bit uneasy that we don’t have actual Expo tickets in our hands, we’ll find out tomorrow if we’ve been Shanghaied in Shanghai.  Like so many of the tour groups around Beijing, I’m secretly hoping they give us matching neon-colored visors. 

Candied Ginger

Sweet treats for a day on the trails.

There is an abundance of fresh ginger at nearly every market in Beijing.  Fēi cháng pián, extremely cheap, a hand-size root will set you back 10RMB ($1.50).  My friend Mary has a delicious recipe for making candied ginger.  A daylong process of boiling and draining the fragrant root, she shared the recipe (and delicious candy) with our hiking group on one of our outings to the hills north of Beijing.

Still very dry from months of drought, the brown hillsides and interesting rock formations reminded me of hiking through parts of northern New Mexico.  We stumbled upon an abandon village and perhaps where a small creek once ran.  Now only crumbled stone walls remain and small shards of broken porcelain scatter the path.       

 

CRYSTALIZED CANDIED GINGER

The New Basics Cookbook- Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins Authors of the Silver Palate Cookbook

 

            2 Cups peeled and diagonally sliced fresh ginger (1/4 inch thick slices)

Pinches of Salt

4 Cups water

1 Cup sugar, plus extra for coating

  1. Place the ginger slices in a medium-size saucepan and add cold water to cover.  Stir in a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.  Then drain the ginger, rinse it under cold water, and drain again.
  2. Repeat this process three more times, each time using fresh cold water and another pinch of salt.
  3. Return the ginger to the saucepan and add the 4 cups water and 1 cup of sugar.  Bring to a boil.  Then lower the heat and simmer until a thick syrup coats the ginger, 1 ¼ hours approx.
  4. Sprinkle a ¼ inch layer of sugar on a small baking sheet.  Using a fork, lift the ginger slices out of the saucepan and turn them in the sugar, coating them well.  Transfer the ginger to a wire rack to cool and dry for at least 1 hour. 

Store the ginger in a covered jar (it will keep for several months if airtight).

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Terracotta Army

No two faces alike.

In 1974 a rural Chinese farmer digging a well unearthed a 2,200 year old tomb.  Buried 30 feet underground to guard the Emperor Qin in his afterlife, the Terracotta Army consists of 8,000 life-size clay warriors, along with their clay horses and chariots.   

Andy and I, along with our local tour guide visited the site of the Terracotta Army, an hour outside of Xi’an.  A sprawling facility with museum and retail boardwalk, the underground tomb consists of three covered excavation pits.    

In the largest of the three pits, infantry, generals, and archers stand ready in battle formation.  Earthen walls and wood slat roofs once supported the soldiers.   As the roof deteriorated, dirt fell onto the soldiers, crushing their hollow bodies.  In the far corner of the largest pits rests the hospital where wounded soldiers are reassembled. 

With no two faces are alike, there was careful attention to detail including clothing, intricate hairstyles, even studded traction on the soles of their shoes.  In total it is estimated that 700,000 workers spent 36 years constructing the tomb and soldiers (as well as other tombs around the valley, including the gravesite for the Emperor). 

I’m not sure if I was more impressed by the original construction of the underground tomb and warriors, or the painstaking precision and patience some have spent a career trying to reconstruct. 

There’s no question the site is worthy of its title, Eighth Wonder of the World. 

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Xi'an

A sweet ride.

Andy and I took the overnight train to Xi’an, China’s ancient capital for more than 4, 000 years and provincial home to eleven dynasties.  At the eastern end of the Silk Road Xi’an was the center for trade, culture, politics, and religion in Ancient China. 

Boarding the train at 9pm, we shared a four bed sleeper cabin with a young Chinese couple, Andy and I taking the top bunks.  A gentle wake-up call to a recording of Chinese string instruments swept through the cabins in time for our 8:30am arrival into Xi’an.    

A dizzying mass of people crowded the station on this bright Saturday morning.  Amongst the passengers exiting, family and friends greeting, and eager taxi drivers, we spotted our names written on a sign held by our local guide, Hank.  First stop: Old City Wall.

Built atop the packed earthen wall of earlier dynasties, the brick and mortar wall of today was built a mere 600 years ago.  Encompassing the ancient city boundaries, we rented a tandem bike and took a spin along the nine mile loop.  Perhaps our sweetest ride to date, providing panoramic views of the old city within and metropolis outside. 

At noon we caught a performance of the city’s musical fountain, a favorite amongst locals.  Streams of water choreographed to classic tunes dance overhead.  The Wild Goose Pagoda providing the most picturesque backdrop. 

We visited the Muslim quarter and Great Mosque, where generations of Chinese Muslims still practice their faith, brought to China during the early days of trade along the Silk Road.  The evening ended with a traditional dance performance in the style of the Tang Dynasty (600-900AD), regarded as China’s Golden Ages. 

A night time walk back to the hotel, we past vendors selling art, trinkets, and candied fruit on a stick.  A close second to my favorite evening treat of popsicles. 

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A percision cut

If he only knew my hair had a mind of its own.

With the arrival of spring and nearly three months of living in Beijing’s dry and cold climate, it was time for a much needed haircut, a welcomed relief to my stressed out locks.  Lucky for me there is a hair salon in the bottom floor of my apartment building. 

Wǒ  yào lifà, I want haircut, my Chinese teacher had instructed me to say.  Taking a seat, my twenty-something hipster hairdresser ran a plastic comb through my hair.  The static sent several strands vertically in the air.  He seemed perplexed by the multitude of layers… some straight, some curly. 

Shaking his head, he quickly waved over two of his co-workers.  They huddled around me discussing a game plan.  To help, I gestured for him to cut off an inch, taking various sections of hair and mimicking scissors with my index and middle fingers.  Ultimately, I just smiled, shrugged, and tried to convince them not to worry; my hair has a mind of its own. 

A shampoo and head massage was followed by vitamin treatment.  Meticulous cutting each strand reminded me of the time my best friends Eve and Andie tried to give me a Posh Spice inspired A-symmetrical bob my junior year of high school. 

Ninety minutes later after another rinse, blow dry and hot iron, I emerged sporting Farah Fawcett circa Charlie’s Angels inspired locks.  My hairdresser beaming with pride, I replied, wǒ xǐhuan, I like. 

Nǐ xǐhuan.  Wǒ gāo xìng. You like, I happy.